Elemental, windswept landscapes. Evil Skuas.
  1. Bird cliffs on Isle of Noss reached by boat from Lerwick
  2. Eshaness – wildest of seas and cliffscapes; next stop Iceland
  3. Jarlshof and Sumburgh – prehistory and puffins at close quarters
  4. St Ninian’s Isle – exquisite tombolo connecting wild island
  5. Scalloway – ancient capital, deep sea harbour, home of Norway bus.

Well worth the long journey.  Expect to be scoured by wild winds but enjoy them as part of the character of the islands.  Visually exciting, more Scandinavian than Scottish and with the sea almost always in view.  The trip out to Noss is not cheap but worth every penny.  Papa Stour was rewarding (but be ready to ward off the skuas). The out-islands have a different feel from mainland.  Do not miss St Ninian’s Isle.  Endless quiet corners to explore and surprises at every turn.  Lerwick’s old harbour front is evocative; the town also has a first-rate bookshop and the best fish and chips ever.  Shetland is joyfully slower and emptier than anywhere else, a wonderful antidote to the madness of civilisation further south.
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